Sandy Ground – The Best Village (2)

 

The Pamead shipwreck- Sandy Ground’s relic!

Remember Tuesday, 5th September 1995? Category 5 Hurricane Louis terrorized Rainbow City. There was a lot of praying going on that night. And after its feeder bands, minimum sustained winds of 140mph and perfect eye wall migrated, things were very different.

With human life spared, thank God, the damage registered elsewhere. Noticeably, not one tree evidenced the existence of chlorophyll in Anguilla, all were stripped to the battered brown bark! Then horrifically, Sandy Island disappeared! For many months! Thank God it’s back now. And with heavy punches Louis knocked the lights out of ANGLEC! Thank God for generators (never were so many heard in Anguilla before nor since).

 

Without approval from Port Authorities, Louis took pleasure in beaching and/or wrecking many many boats. One of the biggest wrecked ships was the Pamead. Today, the Pamead’s carcase stays where Louis told it to, “Sit”.

 

Manchineel Trees
(fruit poisons, sap blisters)

All the way at the southern end of Sandy Ground it relaxes. And so can you this summer. You may choose to walk the distance of the beach beyond the old Mariners Hotel. Or an interesting route is to journey downwards from on top the South Hill, below La Vue. Just before the sun fully stretches, this winding dirt road with the consistent sound of crawling soldier crabs and towering trees gives an almost rain forest feel. The dirt road ends quietly and the ideal chill out spot lies ahead. (Warning # 1: Do not handle the manchineel trees. Do NOT!)

“WOW!”
That was the first word of my friends yesterday who were first timers. Instantly they promised to ditch their regular beaches and frequent this spot.

 

The beach is pristine and poised. The water is pure and placid. It’s ‘Tranquility Wrapped in Blue’.

But the xplorers at heart will be driven to ‘check out’ the corroded gaping Pamead. Distracting for a second is a singular lush rock sitting in the sea, significantly adding to the peculiarity of this niche on the Sandy Ground Beach.

   

The treasure hunt rush overtakes and grows with each approaching step. The Pamead’s stern and bow’s defiance of the seas is valiant, though eventually futile as experienced by the hull, which has gradually succumbed to either caressing or crashing waves. The Pamead and its rich rustic appeal fascinates.
(Warning #2: Please remember that this ship has been there for almost 2 decades, it would be wise to take care and also to walk around it and NOT on it!)

The adventure can extend further beyond the next bend of rocks for a more secluded beach, if increased privacy is the order.

This end of Sandy Ground is simply, calm intrigue! It really wows!
It crowns Xplore Anguilla’s best village with even more beauty!

‘Feeling is believing’ in order to own the ‘Anguilla experience’! (Blogs should be merely  impetus.) Xplore Anguilla!

Sandy Ground – The Best Village

This week we Xplore Anguilla’s best village, Sandy Ground! (Highly subjective I know.) I was born Sandy Ground, you know what I mean, I grew up there! (Things getting personal.)

 

The quaint fishing village of Sandy Ground, geographically speaking, is a valley- a flat piece of land lying between two hills. Moreover, it is a unique valley because it is includes a bar, (a sandbank at the mouth of a bay), sandwiched on the west by an abundant sea and the east by a productive salt pond. The northern end of Sandy Ground is known by villagers as The Corner, down by Ed, and the southern end, by the ‘big wharf’, is The Corpse.

1970’s Sandy Ground

Sandy Gound is corned (salty rich) in heritage. From the lightly salted well that my Mom and her forebears drew from as a child, which is still flowing today, to the usually calm versatile bay that harboured the Warspite and now meets the seafaring needs of many amphibious locals and visitors. Then, to the most salty of all, the Road Salt Pond. Its commerce sustained Anguilla for many years prior to 1985 and even though it was shunned for tourism, it has faithfully continued in vain to produce salt. I believe the pond begs for its annual yields to be fully harvested and be of service to mankind.

Sandy Ground Well

 

My top 2 favorite spots to hangout in Sandy Ground?

 

Firstly, my grandfather at 92 years, Ralph Carty, still gardens and plants lots of coconut trees on his property which I lived on as a child, in The Corner.  His lush grove is on the beach and it is a really really cool place to chill these HOT August days. My grandfather would love the company and may even offer you a coconut water and jelly if you visited!

   

Secondarily, the small wharf by Johnnos is the hot spot for many youngsters and their inseparable parents! (My family and I are regulars.)   The tots build confidence by braving walking on the planked pier, under which the ocean looms. As a child that can be paralyzing (you full well know the feeling, lol). Others grow in confidence as they jump from the low end of the wharf initially and then over time graduate to jumping off the furthest end. The expert ones (age is no factor here) not only jump from the end but headle, flip, dive, and with one breath surface at the shore approx. 25 yards in.   Meanwhile, the uncertified life guard parents look on, reading or writing, enjoying the sunset, taking pics and stopping occasionally to be the ‘fun police’ (Tafari Banks) and say “Be careful.”

        

Anguilla is slow, but Sandy Ground landscaped with its indigenous palm and grape trees and its ginger bread architecture, cools down the pace even more. If you drive down James Carty Hill with hustle and bustle, by the time you ride over the first hump or clear the first ditch, your demeanor is ratified. The village dictates the mood. Even with all its night spots, Sandy Ground strictly reinforces its calmness when the pans stop knocking!

The livelihood, health and well being of the hard working contented Sandy Grounders are strengthened through the salty rich resources God has provided them- the well, the pond, the sea, and each other.

On Friday let’s Xplore Sandy Ground more!

by Mabel

After all that xploring following the local boat races all week from east to west you will be hungry for local food. So next Saturday’s suggested chill out spot has little to do with breathtaking sights but everything to do with mouth watering tastes.

I believe that per capita regionally, Anguilla has the highest percentage of people who can cook good! One such Anguillian is, you guessed it, Mabel.

 

Mabel

If you are going ‘by Mabel’ that would mean going in The Valley, opposite the National Trust, next to a huge uprooted tree stump courtesy of 1996 Hurricane Louis, under the tent and under a mahogany tree. Did your GPS get all that? Oh and it’s Saturday’s only.

I try to get a corn dumplin’ which is wrapped in Anguillian grape leaf tied up with string, as often as possible from ‘by Mabel’. The nostalgia that I have every time I eat one is cherished chew by chew. It transports me back to my childhood kitchens filled with cookers (people who really know how to cook), while reliving the art of corn dumplin’ preparation. I also replay being the designated grape leaf picker, the person whose job it was to pick the biggest grape leaves possible for the cookers.

Mabel has other local foods and drinks, but the tip tip top seller is Mabel’s Corn Soup. It bangs and then bangs again! Over the years I have seen Mabel upgrade the regular size corn soup pot to a huge pot and then clone that one several times.  Over the years ‘by Mabel’, the equilibrium price for corn soup on the curve has also increased from US$4 to its current US$5 per bowl, because the demand is greater than supply.  Meaning, she usually goes home with pots turned down!

My aunt comes from St Croix and on a Saturday and she must get a bowl. My cousins come from SXM and they have to carry back corn soup from ‘by Mabel’! And I just know that lots more people clear Anguilla’s air and seaport security scanners with, yep, Mabel’s Corn Soup! At least one hundredth of a percentage point of Anguilla’s annual GDP should be attributed to exports of Mabel’s Corn Soup! LOL

Even if you do not sit down long by Mabel, the homey smile and “How you do?” will bless your heart, and soon after the food will bless every other body part, in Jesus name.

Looking forward, things on Xplore Anguilla should become interestingly personal and subjective during the rest of August.  Hope you can continue to chill with my iHat, iPhone and i!

Meads Bay

There is a local calypso with the lyrics:
‘If you happen to miss your girlfriend, On August Thursday,
She down on Meads Bay, She down on Meads Bay.
And if you happen to miss your boyfriend, On August Thursday,
He down on Meads Bay, He down on Meads Bay.
Every August Thursday, dey say its Meads Bay, Meads Bay, Break away!’

Meads Bay

And that’s where Xplore Anguilla recommends you be too! (You got to join the chic!)

                                  

Though not as big as August Monday’s race, the August Thursday races are building a reputation for having the best jaw dropping finishes of the entire boat racing week. A hat (not my iHat), sunglasses, towel, umbrella, tent…..whatever you got, bring it because it will come in handy from the extra bright day star. The perfect place to view the finish this year is on the edge of the sea rocks at the head of the beach. But competition for that space will be tight, so you got to squat from early!

Meads Bay Sea Rocks

Meads Bay is not only the quintessence of peace but it also imparts it in ‘good measure pressed down, shaken together and running over’ (Luke 6:38).

This mile long beach is great for chilling this summer , and it’s always summer in Anguilla!  It rolls out a white carpet of soft sand, hard sand, flats and banks which make it fabulous for walking. Don’t mention swimming, this can be done from one end to the next while beholding uninterrupted glistening white sand.  Though during December to February, the big crashing waves are the wow factor!

The small stunning tranquil turquoise cove just under the former Malliouhana Hotel will mesmerize and swimming with sting and manta rays here is becoming the norm. But if it’s fishing you are interested in, the sea rocks just around the cove are ideal at late evenings and for all night throws.  And where else in Anguilla can you find benches specifically built for watching the moon as it ‘hits your eye like a big pizza pie?’  Where?  ‘It down on Meads Bay!’ Lol.

   

Selecting Meads Bay to dine is so, so smart. The menus of all the restaurants on this beach strip are just as excellent as the beach itself, and the cuisine range is just as wide; from upscale fast food to magnifique fine dining both imbued with local traditions and vibes.

   

We take a hiatas from boat races on August Friday and Saturday but Xplore Anguilla’s post this Saturday will feature a chill spot which many will stop by next Saturday.  Keep cool ’til then.

Sing if you know it, ‘Every August Thursday, It’s Meads Bay, Meads Bay, Break away!’

Blowing Point Beach

We Anguillians like to ask people, “Where you from?”                                                          When I am asked that, I usually respond, “All over”.
Then they say, “Seriously, which part of Anguilla you from?”
Then I list the six villages I have sojourned in and then they concur with my initial answer!

 

The 2nd village I grew up in, is the turn around point of the August Wednesday Boat Race- Blowing Point. It is here, as a fine young lady, I learnt to master the art of knocking a hard back off a rock with one precise hit from a well angled stone, rip the flesh out with my fingers, marinade it in the crashing waves and devour. Delicious.

On August Wednesday, the wind driven locally made boats averaging lengths of 28 feet, crews of 20, ballasts weighing 2500lbs and 55 feet masses will leave Sandy ground around 2pm, followed by a train of boat race watchers in power boats.  They will run west to the end of the island, go through the channel between Anguilla and Anguillita, tac east and all eyes will be parked in Blowing point waiting, noisily waiting.

 

Betting, serious betting over who will turn around the stake first, before heading back to the finish in Sandy Ground, ah go on! Some of everything is put up for bets! But the wagers don’t matter most, all the winner wants is to throw in your face an “I tell ya so!” And a “Tek dat in ya skin!” That’s all it is, bragging rights!
It don’t make much of a difference though, because the loser always has some reason why things didn’t go in their favour and will surely show them “next time!” Lolololol.

Grape Tree east of Blowing Point Port

The grape tree east of the port not only has sweet grapes but on August Wednesday, the entrenched sweetness of Point’s love for boat racing perspires from the mainly male occupants.  It is a treat to sit, listen and ask questions….and if you know what’s good for you, don’t go against De Tree, furthermore don’t say nothin’ against Errol and Ross (two boat captains from Blowing Point) or you will be excommunicated with what we call ‘bad words’!

But don’t just limit this grape tree to watching the boats in August. If you ever have to wait on someone coming from SXM, it’s a cool place to kill time or if you ordered some food from Coconos or just picked up a pizza for the children, it is nice to picnic at.  Xplore Anguilla this August Wednesday!  Wanna bet where we going tomorrow?

Beach Front Vivien Vanterpool Primary School

Island Harbour Beach

“Okay class, raise your hand if you want to answer.  Our August Tuesday’s Boat Race starts in Sandy Ground, but does anybody know where it finishes?”

“That’s absolutely correct Michelle, the action finishes in Island Harbour.”

The Island Harbour village is rich with fishing history and experience. It can be distinctly smelt in the air on a drive through but the sense thickens with one walk down the beach. In Island Harbour, fish, crayfish and lobsters are serious business, and so too is boat racing!

The lot of beach directly in front the attractive Vivien Vanterpool Primary School is prime land from which to look and learn about boat racing, our national sport, our ting!

Occupying the western end of the beach, this school has the best location of all the island’s schools! The school is coloured green but the others are green with envy because of its locality!

 

The palm trees hedging the waves from the school grounds is a very low keyed spot to chill and absorb the quaintness of Island Harbour and the star power of Scilly Cay, a stone’s throw over the water (strong arm needed).

 

I invite you to nostalgically remember the good old, old primary school days and Xplore Anguilla at this chill out spot during next Tuesday’s August Boat Race, with roast fish in hand ….lol….. “Michelle, clasp your hands, close your eyes and say grace before you eat; For what we’re about to receive, may the Lord, make us truly thankful, for Christ sake, Amen.”

The Pointe and Elvis Bar & Restaurant

Next Monday, is the biggest day of Anguilla’s Boat Racing week and Sandy Ground is the bull’s eye village!

Numerous are the choices when bone picking a spot to watch this captivating race. Yet many people have been courting the same spot, sitting on the same rock, backing the same boat, arguing with the same people for years and years on August Monday. If you have no traditional spot or if you want to Xplore Anguilla this year ( for just a few minutes at least…lol) then here are 2 unpopular heights.

 

On top The Pointe

Firstly, The Pointe. Continue on the ‘tar tattoo’ (Rita Carty, 2014), on the North Hill which overlooks Sandy Ground, until you can’t drive no more, and you will be at The Pointe. Catching the start of the race from here is absolutely beautiful. Added to that, the congregation will be sparse but learned in boat race.  Plus, it serves up picturesque panoramas, which includes The Ballast Reef and acute looks at the low lying piece of flat land between its two hills.

The Ballast Reef

Sightings of schools of fish, occasional turtles and several species of birds that populate the area are common. The pelicans are forever hovering, then honing in and then rocketing down, beak first into the water which is then left with one less fish. The Pointe’s guests are privy to 5 star unobstructed aerial views of the boats entering the bay, all the way to the exciting finish.  Moreover, The Pointe offers raving boat race scenes that easily compete with those from the South Hill and it also puts Xplorers closer to the masses of the boats than them! LOL

 

Xplore Anguilla’s second spot today, is the deck of  Elvis Bar & Restaurant down in The Corner in Sandy Ground. Their deck is ideal for surveying August Monday Boat Race up close but NOT personal. These pics are worth a thousand words, so knock yourself out and write your own script!

 

The Top Deck of Elvis Bar & Restaurant

 

Xploring Sandy Ground on August Monday is a jollification of many things but foremost it’s a family and a boat race ting!

GOTCHA! Summerbreeze

On the bow of Gotcha! Summertime

Anguilla loves boat racing! It is our ting!

One of the most enjoyable places to watch a boat race from is on a powerboat in close proximity (but not too close) to the racing boats, from start to finish.

My favourite boat to nautically Xplore Anguilla on is GOTCHA! Summerbreeze.

 

It is a Sun Seeker model and it drives like a Rolls Royce I tell ya!  Being perched on the bow of this boat with feet and hands dangling over the edge, while being kissed with intermittent sprays and hair flying in the wind is the absolute sweet spot on this boat, even though right below deck offers posh living and bedroom amenities.  Xploring Anguilla from the bow of this boat is a relaxer. Addiction to Summerbreeze is guaranteed after one ride, I’m warning ya!

 

When the very friendly Captain Garfiled is not expertly and effortlessly cutting waves at mach speeds (kidding), he stops and with sea sense positions the boat so that the skillful turns around the stake, the heart pounding exciting one and only Anguillian ‘hard lees’ and the close dramatic finishes at the flag, are fully captured.

There is just as much noise on Summerbreeze when following the boats, as there is on the beaches or on top the hills and every where else people are peeping through spyglasses and are gathered to unite as one….one in their love for our ting! Noise I tell ya! Cussing we call it! (Anguilla type of cussing.lol). De Tree dem people threatening to throw de  Sonic dem people overboard an ting like dat! Noise I tell ya!

   

Summerbreeze will cost you yes, but it is worth it.  While at sea, you will behold the natural wonder of Anguilla’s breathtaking divinely custom made coastline, a striking vantage point, which is something every Anguillian and visitor should experience.  iHats and iPhone cameras recommended but any other kind would suffice.

A geographical feature called ‘An Arch’ on the West End

Anguillita

So this coming August Sunday or boat racing season, if  you want to ‘follow the boats’, hop on board (send me an invite) and Xplore Anguilla with GOTCHA!

Lil’ Bay

It’s the close of Crazy Week, and yes you guessed it, Lil’ Bay rocks! (Pun intended). So let’s Xplore Anguilla, after which you can chime in.

A Lil’ Bay Hilltop View

Lil’ Bay is kind and accommodating to all xplorers because it wants everybody to enjoy it’s stateliness and majesty, so it graciously offers 4 levels of crazy thrills.

 

Firstly, requiring little or no guts, is entry into Lil’ Bay by boat. If you do not have one of your own, look no further than Calvin who can be hired to transport you from Crocus Bay. It is a most scenic eye pleasing calm ride along a coastline that splurges on eroded rock formations and textures.  Lil’ Bay rocks!

 

Numero dos, is to walk from the top of the hill, all the way down to the jagged sea rocks at the water’s edge, count to 3 (or 100 if you scared), jump or step in and swim to shore. Guts here depends on if you can swim or not! LOL. Did I say the sea rocks are jagged? OK then. Lil’ Bay rocks!

 

Then climbing down the rope is the third option, which is very gutsy but not at all difficult and after doing it once or twice you will become a boss! Two tips: always have one hand on the rope and do not move one foot until the other is planted (you can use your imagination if those tips are not followed). Not to worry coming up, it is tooooo easy and the rope ain’t even necessary, as it feels just like a rock climbing exercise….I told ya, Lil’ Bay rocks!

 

But then the REALLY crazy element of Lil’ Bay catches the eye.  A ways out from the beach is a huge solo Rock. Those with crazy guts climb up the rope and either pee their swim suits and try to come back down the rope.  Or they go for broke and throw away all soundness of mind for a split second, long enough to get suspended in the air, (the point of no return), SCREAM, hold their nose and plunge about 30 feet into some of the purest and most refreshing unpolluted salt water that teams with beauty. YES! Then the REALLY REALLY crazies head back to the rope and do it over and over and over………99.9% of us have not done it (I AM NOT scared………the timing just hasn’t worked out yet) but the iHat did it, can you see it in the pic? Besides, I have watched my son do it often, so vicariously I know how thrilling it is! Lil’ Bay rocks!

Jackass Hole

Lil’ Bay is a marvel. The natural features are magnificent. The sea and bird life abundant. The varying turquoise, sky blue, emerald green yet crystal clear waters, all in one bay, dazzle the eyes and boggle the mind. These undoctored iPhone pics testify powerfully but your own two eyes would rate them as understated….Lil’ Bay is spectacular and it waits to rock you!

Q & A
Q. What to expect next week?
A. Very short posts everyday featuring unique vantage points for boat race watching during the August week. It will be interesting, promise.

Ah Bi Damn Hole

I did promise that this would be a crazy week! I look forward to your evaluation on the weekend on how well my iHat, iPhone and i delivered.

The Bridge at Ah Bi Damn Hole

Ok then, with harnesses fastened (care is needed)………Our crazy xploration of Anguilla begins at the VERY popular Ah Bi Damn Hole!

LOL. Ever heard of it????
99% of you answered in the negative and are thinking, “Ah Bi who? Ah Bi what?”

 

So let’s Xplore Rainbow City Anguilla right now……….cool?

 

On the journey to or from Windward Point you MUST allot time to stop and wonder (and wonder, you WILL) at Ah Bi Damn Hole.
Here’s the download:
Dem say, (and you know who ‘dem’ is), that the various early discoverers of this natural underground feature amongst the low lying vegetation, all did so with only a few feet of advance notice! And spontaneously exclaimed, ‘Well I’ll Be Damned!’ with hands on hips or lips (you know how ‘dem’ does do it).   Then a big sigh of relief followed, uttering, ‘Thank you Jesus I didn’t take two more steps!’

And so ‘dem’ moniker it, ‘Ah Bi Damn Hole!’ Now today, as a regular or first time visitor, this hole still just seems to surprisingly appear and it conjures up the very same reactions of pioneer xplorers. And no matter how many pictures I post, they won’t be spoilers for anyone.

That’s because this wonder is so amazingly crafted and positioned that xplorers only see it just before the penultimate steps are about to be taken, that would lead to a plunge of at least 20 feet into algae covered water whose source, depth and possible outlets are debatable.

 

As an extra bonus, when you are tired trying to wrap your mind around this Masterpiece, do stroll and linger around Ah Bi Damn’s surroundings which feature strange rock placements around an interesting coastline.

I, one of ‘dem’ (Anguillians), lol, urge you to plan to xplore Ah Bi Damn Hole.  Then prepare to stand and be amazed, prepare to bend over and be intrigued, prepare to stoop down and wonder, and prepare to take a pic and post this message, ‘This is CRAZY! WOW! SMH!